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Nicola Mira
Jan 24, 2023
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Five winter 2023-24 trends spotted at Who's Next show

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Jan 24, 2023

Last week-end, nearly 400 women’s ready-to-wear labels unveiled their Fall/Winter 2023-24 collections at the latest edition of the Who's Next show in Paris. They were among the 1,255 exhibitors gathered at the Porte de Versailles exhibition centre, ranging from apparel to accessories, lingerie and jewellery brands. FashionNetwork.com detected a number of distinctive trends among the stands, some of which are listed below. A first overall observation is that there were a good deal of highly colourful collections, all of them characterised by an array of vibrant hues. Perhaps a defiant dig to the Covid-19 period, and the current consumption slowdown caused by inflation? “Featuring increasingly bright colours amidst the widespread drabness is something I’m personally keen on, and clients want it too,” said Sylvie Sonsino, founder of Parisian label Bella Jones. “Retailers are looking for striking outfits, nothing too traditional,” she added.

Looks by Frnch, left, and Gertrude + Gaston, right - FNW

Orange joy

Orange is the bright colour par excellence, zesty and vibrant in its various hues, from carrot to tangerine and pumpkin, but it isn't widely used in the fashion palette, even if it made a noticeable breakthrough in Spring/Summer 2022. In the next fall-winter season, orange will add even more of a zing to our wardrobes, featured in oversize items and colour-block looks, rather than the occasional accent colour. It will mix with understated shades, like cream, taupe or camel, but also with navy blue and bright pink, for the more adventurous. Labels like Gertrude + Gaston, Frnch and Bella Jones showed they are ready to play the orange game.

An outfit by Niu - FNW

Colourful layering

Superimposing garments in multiple layers is a cyclical trend in fashion. For next season, the layers will be bursting with colour, blending textural effects with bold combinations of hues. An example is a look by Italian label Niu that mixes purple with yellow, a single colour with a floral pattern, and tweed-effect wool with smooth cotton.

Two looks by Humility, the label launched by La Fée Maraboutée in 2015 - FNW

Back to earth

In a more sedate spirit, featuring muted shades reminiscent of nature (linen, khaki, sage green and terracotta red), several modern-day gardener’s looks blossomed among the Who’s Next stands. A neo-rural mood that heralded a selection of sleeveless (but hooded) jackets, canvas trousers and loose check dresses.

A model by cashmere brand Madluv - FNW

Fluorescent 90s style

The 1990s, when streetwear came to the fore and colours were loud and fluorescent, are making yet another come-back in the next Fall/Winter season. A trend characterised by both loose and cropped cuts, day-glo shades and graphic symbols galore – lightnings, arrows, triangles and lettering - all infused with a welcome dose of good humour.

Bella Jones and Idano tuned in with the 1970s (and orange crops up again!) - FNW

1970s prints

Patterns-wise, the influence of 1970s psychedelic and geometric motifs was clearly felt. The result was a plethora of hypnotic shapes, in black and white or in colourful variations, found on blouses and dresses, as well as trousers and scarves.

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